... "an inauspicious day for a journey." Okay.
There are actually three Friday the thirteenth's during my current journey (or should I call them "Fridays the thirteenth"?).
Friday, January 13th was a better than average day with no mishaps. It found me hiking over the beautiful Rice Fields on Peters Mountain and then traversing the streets of Pearisburg, VA. It was a notably *good* day.
Friday, April 13th was another stand-out day, free of problems and full of enjoyment. It found me leaving the Cumberland Valley behind and crossing over Blue Mountain. The Cumberland Valley AT Club has constructed a serious stone bench at a beautiful vista point - great place to linger and reflect on the valley walk. The valley contained far more woods walking than I had anticipated, but some nice pasture walks as well. Boiling Springs was undoubtedly the highlight (see yesterday's entry), but the most iconic scenes (grazing cattle and the like) came today. Also the greatest intrusion of civilization into the AT came today. Here's a compendium in pictures:
Friday, July 13th has yet to unfold, of course; but I distinctly look forward to it.
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Here's the track of today's hike. Click on the title, which is a link to a total of 37 photos taken along the route.
AT Day 93 - Northern Cumberland Valley at EveryTrail
EveryTrail - Find the best Hiking in Pennsylvania
Friday, April 20, 2012
Thursday, April 19, 2012
Boiling Springs
This is Childrens Lake. It's full-out spring here, but this setting has to be one of the prettiest spots the AT passes at any time of year.
And just after the NoBo hiker leaves Childrens Lake behind, they reach the ATC regional office - a cute-as-a-button cottage where hikers can get a mug shot taken by the staff. Here's mine:
I actually hiked over four summits, including Centerpoint Knob in the morning before concentrating on the southern half of the Cumberland Valley and reaching Boiling Springs. These summits are what I call 'toy mountains' because they are at just 1200 feet above sea level, and reaching them requires only 500 feet of climbing at most. Still, they provided some exercise.
But back to the Cumberland Valley. Strangely, parking lots turn out to be one of the headline stories here. The long term AT parking lot in Boiling Springs was closed for construction - they're upgrading it into a spiffy 31 car lot:
Meanwhile, up the trail a bit, the ATC is proudly introducing the brand-new Trindle Road (PA 641) parking lot:
The trail south of Boiling Springs passes through open fields (cropland, not pasture) for a mile and a half to the foothills below Centerpoint Knob.
But when I left the highway on my way north out of Boiling Springs, I was surprised to find myself back in the woods. A pretty woods, to be sure, but I wasn't expecting more woods walking here in the flatland.
I'd estimate that more than half the trail miles within the Cumberland Valley are woodland walks, albeit sometimes with civilization in sight beyond the narrow wooded corridor.
And many more miles are along the edges of fields with woods to one side:
Because today presented me with so much that was different from the normal AT fare, I will long remember it. Sometimes the endless 'gaps' and 'knobs' blur together and fade from ready recall. That won't happen with Boiling Springs, Pennsylvania.
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Below is a map with today's hike plotted on it. The title line is a link to many more photos.
AT Day 92 - Boiling Springs, PA at EveryTrail
EveryTrail - Find the best Hiking in Pennsylvania
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Rocky Ridge
Today (Wednesday, April 11th) was chilly with showers of grainy ice. The heaviest of these even accumulated. Just a little reminder that I'm not in Georgia any more. I traversed three bits of high ground and two flat lowland stretches - sure signs that I'm getting close to the Cumberland Valley.
Of the three highland stretches, two were 'same old' ... and then there was Rocky Ridge. It's an unusually steep climb on either side, and it felt good to be working those muscles again -- first genuine vertical challenge since I flipped north. And on top is a quarter mile of gleeful playing among the boulders.
If ever there was a bit of trail designed just for the sheer fun of it, the Rocky Ridge summit traverse is it -- rock scrambling for its own sake - prepositions sans destinations: in and out and up and over and down and around! I loved it as a kid, and Rocky Ridge brought that kid out again. It doesn't have to have any other purpose for being ... although if you're looking for a 'point' to all this effort, Rocky Ridge does offer a couple of limited winter views. Here's the best of them, looking north to the Cumberland Valley:
I took an hour to go a mile over Rocky Ridge, not because it had to take that long, but because I stopped to marvel. Sometimes this trail is not about long distance hiking. It's about living in the moment. It's about a smile. It's about a flower.
Thank you, Rocky Ridge. And kudos to the trail maintainers at the Mountain Club of Maryland, who obviously had a lot of fun blazing every second rock and every third tree through this delightful maze.
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Here's a map with the track of my hike today. The long straight line segment is a glitch that is there because I parked in and hiked from two different locations - the line connects the two parking locations, and I don't know how to delete it. Sorry. Click on the title to look at the whole selection of photos taken today. I usually photograph every road crossing, interesting stream crossings, and anything else that helps document the trail or just strikes my fancy.
AT Day 91 - Rocky Ridge at EveryTrail
EveryTrail - Find the best hikes in California and beyond
Half way
This might be a little hard to explain, but as of today (Tuesday, April 10th) I've completed the entire southern half of the Appalachian Trail. That includes hiking I did last year and previously. I still intend to hike the entire trail twice (out and back) during this single calendar year of 2012. But setting that goal aside for a moment, my footsteps are now continuous from Springer Mountain to Pine Grove Furnace State Park, and for that I'm a proud puppy today :-)E <-- note the emoticon with appropriately bushy beard.
Today was thoroughly delightful despite chilly winds and afternoon overcast. I parked at the Pine Grove Furnace store (closed until April 21st) and just down the road from the Appalachian Trail Museum (shown at left, only open half a day on Saturdays and Sundays until Memorial Day). I hiked south into more of the scrubby woods typical of this part of the state, with lousy, rocky, low-nutrient soil, crossed Toms Run where the vegetation was a bit more lush, passed ‘Halfway Spring’, which seems all but abandoned, and then ascended a side slope through what has to be the ugliest section of AT I’ve encountered to date.
What do I mean by ugly? It looked like a bombed-out war zone. Worse, it is almost completely dominated by invasive species including multiflora rose, Japanese barberry, and mono-culture stands of tree-of-heaven, half of which were dead - blanched white ghosts - trashy standing sticks poking up through their squalid, broken-off and blown-down slash.
North I went to Toms Run Shelters on a not-just-for-foot-traffic gated road, then back to the park, then south for another leg.
Pine Grove Furnace State Park is more like what I expected from Amicalola Falls State Park - it's pretty, but its assets are secondary to the development of trails and picnic areas. There's the historic iron works and a couple of nice man-made lakes with artificial beach swimming areas too. All in all a fine get-away for locals, but nothing to go out of your way to see.
The AT follows paved and/or smooth pea-gravel trails for more than half a mile before ascending on an old woods road. This part of the trail is a popular day-hike, the destination being Pole Steeple (which, surprisingly, is not within the State Park).
Pole Steeple: it's billed as the second most spectacular viewpoint in Pennsylvania. It's a half mile side trip from the AT to the top of Pole Steeple; and I chose not to take the detour because I hadn't done my homework beforehand. This is what I missed:
Maybe I'll make time to return here while I'm in the area - make a little side trip on the weekend so I can check out the AT Museum at the same time. We'll see.
Meanwhile I went a ways out beyond Pole Steeple and came upon a little taste of 'Rocksylvania', otherwise it was just a nice woods walk and then back 'home' in time for dinner.
----------------------------------------------
Here's the map of today's route, with link to more photos:
AT Day 90 - Pine Grove Furnace State Park at EveryTrail
EveryTrail - Find the best Hiking in Pine Grove Furnace State Park
Tuesday, April 17, 2012
hiked ...
Monday April 9th
Curmudgeon stomped the woods. Geezer legs, gray weathered fenceposts, groaned like old wood through another day.
Numbed toes, too often stubbed, met rocky bits where each foot placement needs to be custom-fashioned. Old man Pennsylvania serves up lots of these. It's old, weathered trail, well hiked. But "Rock makes for a durable footpath" - that's the official PA guidebook's answer to critics. "Lame-ass policy, make us *both* lame" the old codger muttered under his breath, "lazy a-holes could at least re-arrange some of the rocks ... get rid of the damn toe-stubbing spikes ..."
Rocksylvania gets a lot of press. Flatsylvania, not so much. What PA extracts from the hiker in the way of bootkilling footing it returns by having some of the smallest accumulated elevation change of anywhere on the trail.
Photos? Get real. I could show you parking lots. I could show you road crossings. I could show you rocks. Of course I could show you rocks. But I'm in grouch-mode today. Grinch mode. I'll begrudge you just one photo: Toms Run Shelters, which serve as a decent half-way landmark - mid-point of the AT - if only the nit-pickers would stop worrying about a tenth of a mile here or there.
In 2011 the Appalachian Trail was 2081.0 miles long (official distance according to the data book), and the half-way point was about a quarter mile north of Toms Run Shelters.
In 2012 the Appalachian Trail is 2084.2 miles long (official distance according to the data book), and the half-way point is about a quarter mile south of Toms Run Shelters.
So the old man milled about Toms Run shelters for a bit, confused and grumbling under his breath, and then he trudged back the way he came.
--------------------------------------------------
Here's a map of today's route, with a link (click on the title) to all the other photos that the old grouch wouldn't show you:
AT Day 89 - Michaux State Forest at EveryTrail
EveryTrail - Find the best hikes in California and beyond
Curmudgeon stomped the woods. Geezer legs, gray weathered fenceposts, groaned like old wood through another day.
Numbed toes, too often stubbed, met rocky bits where each foot placement needs to be custom-fashioned. Old man Pennsylvania serves up lots of these. It's old, weathered trail, well hiked. But "Rock makes for a durable footpath" - that's the official PA guidebook's answer to critics. "Lame-ass policy, make us *both* lame" the old codger muttered under his breath, "lazy a-holes could at least re-arrange some of the rocks ... get rid of the damn toe-stubbing spikes ..."
Rocksylvania gets a lot of press. Flatsylvania, not so much. What PA extracts from the hiker in the way of bootkilling footing it returns by having some of the smallest accumulated elevation change of anywhere on the trail.
Photos? Get real. I could show you parking lots. I could show you road crossings. I could show you rocks. Of course I could show you rocks. But I'm in grouch-mode today. Grinch mode. I'll begrudge you just one photo: Toms Run Shelters, which serve as a decent half-way landmark - mid-point of the AT - if only the nit-pickers would stop worrying about a tenth of a mile here or there.
In 2011 the Appalachian Trail was 2081.0 miles long (official distance according to the data book), and the half-way point was about a quarter mile north of Toms Run Shelters.
In 2012 the Appalachian Trail is 2084.2 miles long (official distance according to the data book), and the half-way point is about a quarter mile south of Toms Run Shelters.
So the old man milled about Toms Run shelters for a bit, confused and grumbling under his breath, and then he trudged back the way he came.
--------------------------------------------------
Here's a map of today's route, with a link (click on the title) to all the other photos that the old grouch wouldn't show you:
AT Day 89 - Michaux State Forest at EveryTrail
EveryTrail - Find the best hikes in California and beyond
Monday, April 16, 2012
North to Katahdin
Today, Easter Sunday April 8th, marks the beginning of the second leg of the adventure. After four days off the trail I was itching to go. Got up at 4:30 and drove to the trailhead parking lot at Caledonia State Park in southern Pennsylvania and was headed north shortly after sunrise.
The plan is (though best-laid plans "oft gang aglay") to string together out-n-back day hikes from here continuously north all the way to Katahdin. Then, as fall descends and the leaves are changing in the Shenandoahs, I'll go back to Daleville, VA where the adventure began, and make my way north to Caledonia for the grand finale.
It all looks so easy in black-and-white on the computer screen. Step upon step, soaking in nature's wonders, tripping over rocks, deliriously happy one day, beat down and plodding on another - that's the boots-on-the-ground reality. It's a long way. Yet somehow each day seems to be enough by itself - each out-n-back provides a challenge and a fulfillment. And as long as I get up every morning eager to hike one more day hike, I really *don't* care about the destination. I already don't want this odyssey to end!
The transition from Georgia to southern PA was a bit of a shock. In Georgia the mountains are perky - plenty of knobs and peaks to see and traverse. Up here the mountains roll along in lazy, subdued ridges and mounds. There's much less relief (vertical variation) and yet the soil is much more rocky. Therefore so is the trail.
From Caledonia State Park I hiked north to Birch Run Shelter and back, about nineteen miles of hiking, and got only this one very limited vista of the flatland to the west.
The highlight of the day was the immaculately maintained Quarry Gap Shelters - complete with hanging baskets full of pansies, a picket fence and park bench. The shelter caretaker, 'innkeeper' Jim Stauch, shows up most days (judging by the entries in the log book), and obviously applies a lot of TLC here. It's more like a country cottage from a picture book than a trail shelter.
Otherwise the trail was like this - a steady walk along a broad ridge with plenty of road crossings and even a few short road walks. Michaux State Forest is a popular multi-use destination and it is criss-crossed with gravel roads. You can't avoid them. Fortunately they're fairly lightly traveled, so don't detract much from the wilderness experience.
And it felt wonderful to be back to that wilderness experience after the whizz and bustle of the Baltimore Inner Harbor. The rehabilitation of that inner city core area is a marvel to behold and a delight to visit. But on a day-to-day basis, I'd much rather be out in the wilderness, thank you very much.
-------------------------------------------------
Here, as always, I've provided a map with the route of today's hike plotted on it, and with little red 'pegs' or 'pushpins' that mark where I took a photo. To see the photos, click the title.
AT Day 88 - Caledonia State Park at EveryTrail
EveryTrail - Find hiking trails in California and beyond
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
AYCE
Every Appalachian Trail long distance hiker knows, or quickly learns, this acronym: All You Can Eat!!!
One of the favorite subjects for discussion on long trail days is food - specifically fantasizing about what you're going to eat on the next visit to town.
Well, with a few days off the trail to take care of business (including taxes - I'm due a refund! Yay!), there was also time to connect with my kids for a little R&R in the Baltimore Inner Harbor ...
... and for a little upscale AYCE action. And I mean upscale. As part of a belated birthday celebration for El, we went to Fogo de Chao, an all you can eat Brazilian Steak House. Like strolling minstrels, there are waiters circulating among the tables with skewers of hot, fresh, succulent meats of a dozen different varieties. No getting up to go to the buffet - the food comes to you on demand. Needless to say we all got stuffed - giddy stuffed. Laughing and joking all the way back to the parking garage even though the only 'drink and drug' involved were ice water and beef.
A really enjoyable day. Thanks, kids.
One of the favorite subjects for discussion on long trail days is food - specifically fantasizing about what you're going to eat on the next visit to town.
Well, with a few days off the trail to take care of business (including taxes - I'm due a refund! Yay!), there was also time to connect with my kids for a little R&R in the Baltimore Inner Harbor ...
... and for a little upscale AYCE action. And I mean upscale. As part of a belated birthday celebration for El, we went to Fogo de Chao, an all you can eat Brazilian Steak House. Like strolling minstrels, there are waiters circulating among the tables with skewers of hot, fresh, succulent meats of a dozen different varieties. No getting up to go to the buffet - the food comes to you on demand. Needless to say we all got stuffed - giddy stuffed. Laughing and joking all the way back to the parking garage even though the only 'drink and drug' involved were ice water and beef.
A really enjoyable day. Thanks, kids.
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